All of Zurich feels like it is one of the most elegant shopping streets in the world. Lake Zurich has a legendary location, surrounded by everything one’s heart (and in some cases mind) desires. When you stand on Bellevue Platz in the centre, with the lake behind you and the so-called Gold Coast in front of you – as in the nickname given to the homes of the rich and famous which shimmer gold in the evening sunshine – then you know that just round the corner, behind the old opera house, is the place where news with a global impact are being written and printed. Indeed, this is where the editorial department of the traditional Neuen Zürcher Zeitung (NZZ) newspaper is based.
The small and admittedly sometimes a little less important things in life – including ‘Z’ magazine and NZZ am Sonntag Sunday newspaper’s ‘STIL’ supplement are printed just a few streets away. Our starting point, of course. As this is where we are meeting Anton J. Erni, Photo Editor of NZZ am Sonntag, 'Stil' & ‘Z’ magazine and SCREENINGS 2013 judge and his editorial team.
Z MAGAZIN launched in 2007, is published eight times a year and is Switzerland’s only lifestyle and luxury supplement with its own app. Seasonal fashion trends, interiors and design, watches and jewellery, beauty and car specials are published for its stylish and high purchasing power readership. The editorial board comes up with the subjects, selects the photographers to carry out the fashion and production shoots and commissions illustrators who know how to use their own visual style to make luxury goods look even more appealing.
For instance in the magazine’s latest lifestyle issue, in which stylist Claudia SCHOLTAN c/o KSTIEGEMEYER and photographer Tina LUTHER c/o BIRGIT STÖVER explore autumn trends in Hamburg…
But back to Anton J. Erni. Born in December 1973 in Frauenfeld, he completed a traditional apprenticeship in Zurich, before then studying at art schools in Basel, Berlin and Zurich. Before being appointed Photo Editor of NZZ in 2007, he pursued his passion for fashion, working for Akris, Annabelle, Mistral and Tommy Hilfiger. He showed GoSee the editorial department rooms and gave us a small and exclusive tour and also presents an overview of his work for our readers…
You are the Photo Editor of NZZ am Sonntag’s Stil & Z Magazin. What is the challenge of working for NZZ?
The style and lifestyle supplements of NZZ are high quality products and our readership is interested in and knowledgeable of the areas they cover. I thoroughly enjoy the task of researching, organising and producing visual material for these two beautiful magazines.
Did you always know that you wanted to work in the fashion sector?
I already decided what I wanted to wear as a kid. This is something that has stayed with me to this day. So the answer is clearly a yes.
Does the editorial department work on a conceptual basis or do you follow trends? And how do you come up with the subjects?
Both. Trends deserve to be introduced just as much as concepts (e.g. ‘wedding’, ‘family’ etc.).
Is there a common theme or a NZZ signature style?
We most certainly have a signature. A common theme should hopefully be found in each of our stories.
Speaking of signature – it’s actually defined in a book. ‘Vademecum’ is the linguistic technical reference point for all NZZ Editors. Can you tell us a bit about it?
It is our internal dictionary as NZZ still famously works with its own interpretation of the official new German spelling.
How often do you refer to it?
Rarely, as I don’t have to write.
What do you always have at the ready on your desk – since it’s not the Vademecum?
I have two screens, a keyboard, a mouse, a telephone, my mobile, water and tea and sometimes coffee, page layouts and programmes for the magazines, stationary and most importantly – a radio (I upgraded to digital half a year ago).
You organise the shoots for your fashion spreads. How do you select the photographers and where do you source the fashion from? Is it international or mainly from Switzerland?
We shoot the majority here in Switzerland. But sometimes we also produce abroad, for example jewellery and fashion spreads. I select the photographers together with the AD and editor – depending on the subject of the issue. His or her style must fit in with ours and their portfolio must convince us that they are the right person for the job. Contacts are made through all imaginable channels, through research, stylists, journalists, or the photographer themselves if they can send us a strong portfolio. And last but not least GoSee of course.
In addition to this illustration plays an important role for you, which we as illustration fans are delighted to see. Do you have a pool of illustrators or can artists send in their portfolios?
Both. We like to return to artists that have already worked for us many times before and we also like to work with illustrators we haven’t worked with before if they show us promising work.
Do you also make personal appointments with photographers, illustrators, agents and if yes what do they entail?
Of course. Interview appointments are usually made with the agents, photographers and illustrators themselves. When a fixed idea is in the pipelines, we like to invite potential candidates to a GoSee to find out if a collaboration is viable.
Besides Akris are there any other exciting Swiss designers or fashion brands that we should have our eye on?
Akris is surely one of the most famous names. In addition there are established designers such as Kazu Huggler and emerging talents such as Laend Phuengkit, Sandro Marzo and Claudia Zuber, that I would warmly recommend to you and your readers.
There are various projects that present young designers, such as Mode Suisse at Zurich’s Schiffbau. And the dressed.ch platform likewise presents an entire range of promising design talents. What are your bookmark recommendations for GoSee readers?
The Mode Suisse fashion shows are reserved for an industry audience, however the showrooms are open to everyone – and they really are worth a visit! Young Swiss designers also show off their talent at Mercedes Benz Zurich Fashion Days.
What is your opinion on print vs. online? Hard competition or is the business here to stay?
Online is the medium of our times, which has made the majority of paper redundant. Both mediums have their pros and cons. I personally really like to look at pictures on paper and highly recommend photographers present their portfolio in print whenever possible – paper is still significant and has an enduring appeal.
In June 2012 the online and print editorial departments were merged and the website relaunched with the title «Neue Zürcher Zeitung» (replacing «NZZ Online»). News that the print editorial department write are now published on your website as soon as they are ready. Are you happy with this development?
No. The merger has been a process we have been improving since the start. It is nowhere near ready. A lot needs to be improved and developed. We are working on it, but I’m sure you know all about it as an online medium yourselves.
Absolutely and final question: your fashion places to be for Zurich (shops, designers, restaurants, bars, pools,…)?
I recommend all visitors to Zurich go for breakfast on a Saturday morning at 'Café ‘Z am Park’, then a walk through the pretty Zurich city centre (in particular ‘Kreise 3 and 4’) or a visit to the Viaduktbögen and Gerolds Garten with all its great shops, cafes and restaurants in Kreis 5. And if I’m in need of a drink before an elaborate dinner I like to go to Kronenhalle Bar.
GoSee is delighted to have won over Anton J. Erni for this year’s SCREENings Jury. Meet him in person at the UPDATE 13 at the Ritz Carlton Berlin. And if you want to find out more about Switzerland, the luxury supplement or the ‘OBJET DE DÉSIR’ page, we’re pretty sure Anton will be happy to answer your questions.
