Louisa Models is Germany’s best-known modelling agency. Louisa von Minckwitz founded the agency in Munich in 1981. She opened another branch in Hamburg in 1990. Today Louisa Models represents around 400 models and 50 artists. The agency’s model book includes names such as Catherine Flemming, Erol Sander, Christiane Paul, Andrea Kempter, Monica Bellucci, Elle Macpherson, Izabel Goulart, Daniela Pestova, Eva Padberg and Valerie Niehaus.

Louisa von Minckwitz discovered top model Julia Stegner, who you will recognize from many a GoSee newsletter, 14 years ago at the Munich Oktoberfest in 1999 and immediately signed her. Jana Beller, who you might know from Germany’s Next Topmodel by Heidi Klum, has been with the agency since 2011. Here is our GoSee interview.

What’s your day-to-day life like, seeing as you are such a big name in the industry? Who books Louisa models and why?

It’s similar to any other professional and reputable modelling agency. Our clients include catalogues, online shops, advertising agencies, direct clients, editorial offices, international fashion companies, young designers and photographers. A big chunk of the work comes from the fashion and beauty industry. Of course I feel like we cater to a very high level of clients, but this is something we have worked hard for. That is where the agency’s quality and the look of the models we have on our books come in.

Has the number of international clients increased? Or do you work more nationally?

Yes there has been an increase of international business; the markets have opened up more and more in recent years. You could see this in the press as well, with the beautiful Russians and Brazilians. Louisa is an internationally established company and therefore generates client requests – which of course makes us very happy.

Thanks to start-ups – are there entirely new client sectors now?

In fact the online shop is a new and highly interesting client sector. They carry out a lot of fashion productions and request a large amount of models for them. This applies to local Munich clients as well as retailers operating worldwide – and as you can imagine, their budgets vary a great deal.

In terms of mediations and recommendations – has the Internet and sites like Twitter and Facebook changed anything?

Absolutely. The models are all connected and friends with each other now. Sometimes you can reach a model more easily via Facebook than on her mobile. But we still use a classic booking process; details are exchanged on the phone or via e-mail – not via Twitter or Facebook.

A legal question – how does a buyout for the image rights work nowadays with these new media options?

Of course the new online additions made new social media image usability terms necessary. In principle the buyouts are negotiated separately from the fees. The VELMA buyout list gives you an idea. But you have to be quite sensitive – because not all clients have calculated this expense in a separate budget.

Julia Stegner – a phenomenon. How do you explain her constant success?

Julia has developed into an international top model – she has a very high level of self-discipline, you could almost call it German – and of course a very good agency (laughs). Thus we were able to conquer the international market through years of close and trusting collaboration; you can actually see our journey in the GoSee news archive.

Has the models’ look changed, gone into a certain direction or is there some kind of system?

I wouldn’t say there is a system as such, but the girls have faces with a bit more character nowadays. They are increasingly ‘types’ of girls and not classic beauties with symmetric faces. The client wants to get an idea of their charisma and personalities. And a general rule is – the girls are getting younger and younger.

You can see more and more celebrities as brand testimonials. How do you react to this? Is it a problem?

No, you have to have a relaxed attitude to this as an agency. The fashion industry always books models – the clothing size is a big factor. Very few celebrities would fit those clothes, despite the size 0 debate. But the fragrance industry is a whole other story; they often use Hollywood actresses as testimonials. Let’s not forget that it’s still a very big market though and if you are a top model such as Julia, you can compete in this VIP world internationally.

What’s your opinion on the changing model agency landscape? What have you noticed? More? Better? Worse?

There are a lot of competitors on the market, but we like the saying: ‘competition is good for business’! I can’t and won’t say much about the quality of other agencies, I think you have to assert yourself and then survive for a few decades. That is a testament to a trusting relationship between model and agency as well as satisfied clients, who are loyal to you.

Speaking of client behaviour: have you noticed a shift in clients’ expertise? Meaning, they know what they want because they have already seen it somewhere and they book wherever is cheapest?

In general you have to treat the clients’ budget with caution and be able to make budget appropriate suggestions – from new faces to top models. If you have been doing that for a long time, you develop a certain level of competence the clients trust. It’s about virtues such as reliability, professionalism and a productive working relationship.

Is consulting still relevant for you then?

Yes of course, personal consultation and personal customer support are more important than ever. This is not something you can find on a website. It’s not always clear from the start who will get the job, it’s a very delicate process, but it is processes like these that are the foundation for careers such as Julia’s.

What is more important when choosing a photographer: their visual style or references?

Their visual style is highly important, not just for us, but also for the client – at the end of the day they want to sell a product. There are changing trends and looks, but in the end it’s a mix of both, the look and job references that are important for us when we place our models.

When you look at advertising today – do you find it more prudish than before? What does Louisa think of nudity?

Advertising’s visual language is more open and free today I think. The good old phrase ‘sex sells’ – with a certain aesthetic of course – is still as relevant today as it was years ago.

Could Kate Moss have been a Munich girl?

(laughs) You can’t say that, because Kate Moss is an internationally recognised model, which has fit our Zeitgeist for a long time. Her origin is not important anymore. But why not, with the right agency? (laughs again and appears very amused by the idea…)

Last question: is photography important in your personal life?

Sure, it’s not just part of my daily working life, where I am surrounded by photography all day. As a visual person, I really appreciate classic fashion photography, I own various photo books by international photographers, follow a variety of blogs – and am always looking forward to the next GoSee newsletter – even if we’re not in it!

Well this seems like a good time to end the conversation – they say you should finish on a high note after all. And we’ll see Louisa very soon anyway – on 25 October in Berlin to be precise, where she will be a member of the UPDATE13 jury for the SCREENINGS 13 Award. In this role she will help choose the three winners from the remaining 20 photographers in the final meeting during the event. By the way: the top 20 was selected today – but we unfortunately can’t reveal this information just yet - stay tuned!